Conditions referenceSeason, water and visibilityBest Apr–Jul · Strong current · 20.5–26°C (coldest Aug, warmest Jan)
- Current
- Strong
- Water temperature
- 20.5–26°C (coldest Aug, warmest Jan)
- Visibility
- 10–30m: ~10–30m, season-dependent; Aliwal visibility can be cut by run-off and effluent.
- Experience
- Protea Banks and the deep baited dives want Advanced Open Water plus ~25–30 logged dives and comfort descending in blue water.
01 · Marine life
What you may see
Sightings are never guaranteed. The bars show typical likelihood by month.
| Month | Likelihood |
|---|---|
| January | not seen |
| February | not seen |
| March | rare |
| April | rare |
| May | occasional |
| June | peak season |
| July | peak season |
| August | peak season |
| September | peak season |
| October | occasional |
| November | occasional |
| December | rare |
Migrating pods pass up the coast in winter and spring, seen mostly from the boat (occasionally lunge-feeding on the Sardine Run).
| Month | Likelihood |
|---|---|
| January | occasional |
| February | peak season |
| March | peak season |
| April | peak season |
| May | peak season |
| June | occasional |
| July | rare |
| August | rare |
| September | rare |
| October | rare |
| November | occasional |
| December | occasional |
The big draw of the warm season, brought in on baited dives at Aliwal and cruising Protea’s Northern Pinnacle; strongest roughly February–May.
| Month | Likelihood |
|---|---|
| January | peak season |
| February | peak season |
| March | peak season |
| April | peak season |
| May | occasional |
| June | occasional |
| July | occasional |
| August | rare |
| September | rare |
| October | occasional |
| November | peak season |
| December | peak season |
Resident but strongest in the warm months (roughly November–May) and thin in early spring.
| Month | Likelihood |
|---|---|
| January | rare |
| February | rare |
| March | rare |
| April | rare |
| May | peak season |
| June | peak season |
| July | peak season |
| August | occasional |
| September | rare |
| October | rare |
| November | rare |
| December | rare |
Super-pods drive the Sardine Run bait balls, roughly May–July.
02 · Dive sites
Dive sites worth knowing
A starting point, not a ranking. Conditions decide what works on the day.
Aliwal Shoal — Cathedral
Aliwal Shoal: Cathedral: The signature ragged-tooth site, with ledges and swim-throughs.
12–30m · Moderate current
Aliwal Shoal — Landers Reef
Aliwal Shoal: Landers Reef: A subtropical reef drift with dense fish life.
15–30m · Moderate current
Aliwal Shoal — North Sands
Aliwal Shoal: North Sands: The shallower northern crown with hard corals and reef fish.
6–25m · Moderate current
03 · LogisticsGetting there and costsEasy. Fly to DUR. Typical trip $–$$$.
Route overview
Easy
Day trips from a coastal base, about 1h from the airport, then a short boat.
Airport options
DUR
King Shaka International Airport (Durban)
~45 minutes to Umkomaas (Aliwal Shoal); ~1 hour 45 to Shelly Beach (Protea Banks)
Typical trip cost
$–$$$
under $2,000 to over $4,000
Per person, excluding international flights.
- Wide range.
- A baited shark dive at Aliwal is around R1,900 (~$105) including air; a tiger-focused dive ~R2,250 with a raggie add-on ~R600.
- A Protea Banks package runs from ~R9,700 for six days with reef, wreck and baited dives.
- A full Sardine Run expedition is ~R45,500–68,000 for 6–8 nights.
- An Aliwal Shoal marine-protected-area permit is ~R75/year or ~R45/month; note the permit sale system reportedly changed in 2024: confirm with the operator.
Permit or park fee
What you pay
Aliwal Shoal MPA scuba permit ~R75/year or ~R45/month (indicative
confirm current requirement).
How it works
A South African marine-protected-area scuba permit is required for Aliwal Shoal (an MPA), sold annually or monthly and usually arranged by the operator. Availability of the permit changed around 2024: verify the current requirement with your dive centre.